Over the comming weeks we will be introducing a comprehensive range of Soft Fruit Plants. These are all easy to grow and have been selected for their yield and flavour. So please make sure you come back to purchase from our selection of Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, Blueberries, Red and Black Currants, Tayberries, White Currants and many more, for a fruitful summer in 2012.

Growing Tips

We are happy to offer general advice here on growing soft fruits but if you have any tips you would like to share please send them to info@strawberryfield.co.uk we would be more than happy to receive them.

Growing Strawberries

Where to grow?

Strawberries will grow in most free draining organic rich soils, but don’t worry if you haven’t the space for a small farm to grow delicious strawberries, all it takes is a bright sunny spot where you can place a Pop Up Strawberry Planter and you’re on your way. Put it near your kitchen door and you can just step out and pick garden-fresh strawberries whenever you like.

When to grow?

For the best results, summer fruiting strawberries can be planted outside in September/October or March/April. We will have a a selection of different varieties so you can pick n’ mix your plants.

Bed preparation

If you’re planting straight into your garden soil then you’ll need to remove any existing weeds and dig over the area before planting. For the best results incorporate a soil improver to enrich the area with organic matter.

Planting into a planter

Shake the planter to distribute contents evenly and pierce drainage holes in the bottom. Cut the planting holes and insert the young plants to the same depth as they were grown in their pots (warning: planting too deep can cause them to rot off).

Watering in

After planting, water in thoroughly and continue to water regularly for the next few weeks until plants become established. To ensure you get the juiciest fruits it’s important to water regularly through the season, taking care not too over water as this can cause root disease.

Feeding

From flowering until harvest, feed once a week with a high potassium liquid plant food.

When to replace or propagate your plants?

Plants will continue producing fruits for around 6 years, however, after 2 or 3 years the yields will reduce so most gardener’s start a fresh planting. You can either buy new plants from the garden centre or make your own from ‘runners’ (these are the smaller plants that are sent out across the soil surface from the mother plant). Simply peg these down and they will root quickly to form a brand new plant for the next season.

Growing Raspberries

Tasty red or golden fruits that are easy to grow and a great favourite of children. Many people prefer them to strawberries. They grow well every year and throughout the UK without too many problems and even thrive in cool, damp summers.

All varieties of Raspberry will crop for 3 to 6 weeks each year. If youhave lots of space try to plant a mixture of early types,that will be in fruit from June, a mid season type that will fruit in july and later summer friters from late July form about 6 weeks you should have fruit for most of the summer. You could even plant an autumn cropping variety that fruits for up to 2 months from mid August . Once planted they will give a great crop for 10 years or more, especially if fed every year.

Soil and position

Most soils are suitable for raspberries, although they hate being waterlogged and therefore dislike un-improved clay that is permanently wet and airless. It will pay dividends to improve the structure of all soils with organic matter. This will increase air and drainage on heavy clay soils and the moisture holding capacity of light sandy soils. Even on a good loam, added organic matter will encourage more fibrous surface roots. Find a sheltered position that is away from the worst of the winds and that gets sun for at least some of the day. Planting along a fence is a good idea, as it makes supporting the stems an easy job.

Some varieties of raspberries, such as Tulameen, will happily grow and crop when planted in large patio containers or even Vegetable Planter. A giant planter or large pot will grow 3 canes, although the compost will need to be kept moist throughout the growing season.

Planting

Plant bare root canes in the winter. November or December are best, although it can be done right up to the end of March. Dig a trench 45cm (18in) wide and 20cm deep and cover the base with a good layer of Organinc Matter. Dig this into the base of the trench and then plant the canes allowing 45cm between each cane. Replace the soil and gently firm. Feed the soil with a handful of Fruit and Vegetable Plant Food around each cane. Finally cut the canes back to around 15cm (6in) from the ground to encourage strong new growth.

Support

Knock in sturdy posts at the end of each row and stretch heavy-guage wires between the posts at around 70cm, 1.2m and 1.7m above ground. Tie the canes to the wires with soft twine.

Care

Water the newly planted canes during the first season if the weather is dry. In subsequent years watering when the fruits are swelling may be needed if the soil is not already moist. Pruning of summer varieties of raspberries should take place after the last fruit has been picked. Cut down all the dark brown canes that have born fruit that summer, retaining the best 6 new canes for next year’s crop. All canes of Autumn varieties should be cut back in February. Tie new canes to the wires as they grow.

For maximum crops feed each year in March with Fruit and Vegetable Plant Food. To retain moisture at the roots, add a mulch layer of Soil Improver around the base of the canes each year. Don’t use the hoe to keep weeds under control, as this will physically damage the surface roots. Instead spray to quickly kill the weeds.

Harvest

Allow the fruits to turn full colour before gently pulling away from the stem. Pick every day and store in the fridge until you have enough for a meal. If you have more than you can eat, raspberries freeze well and once thawed retain their form, colour and taste.

Pests

In some areas garden birds will eat nearly ripened fruit before you can pick them. In that case you will need to net the crop carefully so you get your just rewards or use one of our various Fruit Cages. The caterpillar-like grubs of the raspberry beetle can be a nuisance, but can be controlled with sprays when the first fruits start to turn pink.

Growing Gooseberries.

Gooseberries are a fantastic crop producing a great deal of fruit from a relatively small bush. They can also tolerate some slight shade which does make them perfect for the smaller garden. They are an early crop so can be enjoyed while your other fruits are still ripening.

When and Where.

You should be planting out your Gooseberries in the Autumn, try and locate them in a sheltered sunny position although they can tolerate some shade. The soil must be well-drained and moist. Fork the ground removing weeds and stones. Dig a suitable hole and add some rotted manure and some general fertiliser.  Plant in a hole 3 times the size of ther root ball and as deep as the roots, spread out the roots of bare-rooted bushes and then cover with soil, place soil between roots to avoid air pockets. Firm the soil down and water in well. Space the plants approximately 1 meter apart, cordons can be spaced at 35-45cms. Water the plant well while it is establishing then cover soil with bark or compost to help retain moisture. Goosberries are also suitable for growing in contaners.

Harvesting

The first Gooseberry harvest should be ready in late May - Early June, remove about 50% of the fruit, this gives a longer cropping season and will allow the remaining fruit to grow large. After the initial harvest further crops can be picked over the next few weeks. To prevent your fruit becoming bird food it would be a good idea to net the crop if you have a lot of plants a Large Fruit Cage or Fruit Netting will be a great idea.

Maintenence

Pruning and training your gooseberries will help you to obtain the best crops. Pruning in winter should aim to form a balanced branch structure while also helping to keep the centre of the bush open – this enables picking without prickling. Cut back leading shoots by a third; prune back shoots pointed towards the centre of the bush. In the summer you can prune back side shoots to five leaves, encouraging fruiting spurs to develop.

Train single-stemmed cordons against walls or onto canes, tying the leading shoot tip into the support. As with bushes, during the summer prune side shoots back to five leaves. When winter comes, shorten the main tip by a quarter, and shorten side shoots to three buds, encouraging new fruit spurs next year.

Top Tips

Check the leaves of your gooseberries for signs of caterpillars and pick these off by hand. Use insecticide if this isn’t working or if there are too many pests. Steady watering when the fruits are developing will produce the best results; erratic watering, or heavy watering after a dry period may cause splitting and rotting in the fruit. When harvesting, protect yourself from the thorns by wearing gloves and long sleeves